Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Willett Pot Still Reserve Bourbon (Single Barrel) - Keeping the Bottle's Promise

[caption id="attachment_38" align="aligncenter" width="546"]Willett Pot Still Reserve Bottle Such a cool bottle.[/caption]

First things first - that is a damn cool looking bottle. It's shaped like a pot still, which makes it self-referential as well as striking.

Also interesting is that this a single-barrel whiskey, not to be confused with cask-strength whiskey. A whiskey can be one or both.

In this case, it's single-barrel, but not cask strength. It's been watered down a little to 94 proof (whiskey tends to come out of the barrel around 110 proof or higher, unless it's been aged a couple of decades or more). Mine is bottle 80 of 259 from barrel 80, for what that's worth.

"Single Barrel" denotes a bottle whose contents come from a single barrel. This is distinct from the normal practice of marrying the contents of many, many barrels together to smooth out the barrel-by-barrel variations that occur during the aging process and create a distinctive, but repeatable, flavor for the expression.

So, while the master distiller does his best to choose the representative barrels for single barrel bottling, it's reasonable to expect more variation between bottles from different barrels than you would  between bottles from different mixed barrel bottlings. So, if you find a bottle of single barrel whiskey that you dearly love, you might want to keep an eye out for other bottles from that same barrel.

Willett Pot Still Reserve carries no age statement. However, information online seems to indicate that it's aged between 8-10 years in oak barrels.

However neat the concept and striking the container, though, booze earns its place on my bar by its taste, and taste alone. So, do the contents live up to the promise of the bottle?

Yes, yes they do.

WIllett Pot Still Reserve is a lovely deep amber. Neat, the nose is sweet, with some oak spiciness. On the tongue, it is medium bodied, smooth. The flavor starts with a rich sweetness of honey and vanilla that fades into a pleasantly long spicy finish.

Add a little water, not much at all, and the caramel and vanilla become discernible in the nose. The initial sweetness subsides some what, but more caramel comes through. The finish loses some length, but the spicy notes multiply, making for a pleasantly more complex dance of flavors on your tongue.

A quick check online shows prices running between $35-$40 a bottle, which makes this a solid value. The fact that the bottle is a conversation piece is just icing on the cake, as it were.

This now has a home on my bar - when the bottle is finished, I will find a way to replace it. That said, I'm still figuring out where this fits vis-a-vis my big 4: Blantons, Woodford Reserve, Elijah Craig 18, and Black Maple Hill. I think it's just below them - which still makes it an excellent dram. More testing, I think, is required.

Learn more about the Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (Willett Distillery).

Friday, May 10, 2013

Old Pulteney 12 - A Lovely Dram

Old Pulteney 12 Bottle and glass




This week's dram is Old Pulteney 12. This is a single malt scotch aged  for 12 years in ex-bourbon barrels.


This is the youngest expression from the Pulteney Distillery in Wick, Scotland. They also offer 17-, 21-, 30-, and 40-year-old whiskies.


The Pulteney Distillery is the Scottish main's northernmost distillery. Wick is a coastal town, and the whisky features flavors and aromas that evoke the sea.


This has long been one of my favorite single malts, because of its lovely, complex flavor and reasonable price (between $30-$40, depending on locale) for a 12-year-old scotch. Old Pulteney 12 is bottled at 86 proof, which is in the standard range for most scotches.


Taken neat, the color is a golden amber. My nose detects a hint of sea air, and some honey. On the tongue, I taste honey, more hints of the sea, a small bit of fire and peat and maybe a few bourbon notes. It's mouthfeel is medium  - not too heavy, not too light. It seems to finish quick and clean, but there's pleasant subtle lingering aftertaste. The alcohol burn is quite muted.


Old Pulteney 12 drinks quite nicely neat, in part because it's already been watered down some from cask strength, as are the vast majority of whiskies on the market. However, just because a whisky is bottled at less than cask strength doesn't mean that a little water in the glass won't potentially have a great effect on the aroma and flavor.


Add a splash of water, and things change quite a bit. The nose intensifies, and if I close my eyes and sniff, I can picture myself on a rock jetty with salt spray in the air.


The honey flavors recede just a little, and out comes more of the briny sea flavors,  as well as some of spiciness of the oaken bourbon casks. The finish lengthens as well.


One of the things that I happen to love about the coast is the smell of salt and seaweed in the air. The flavors and aromas of Old Pulteney can transport me to a bracing day on the edge of the sea, waves rhythmically breaking on the sea wall, salt in the air carried by a stiff breeze...as opposed to the southern Islay malts, which evoke stormy seas with raging waves and howling winds.


This is a single malt that I try to keep on my bar. I don't always succeed, due to Old Pulteney no longer being sold in home state of North Carolina.