Sunday, March 30, 2014

Talisker 10 - Fire and Spice

Talisker 10-year-old

 

Talisker hails from the Isle of Skye, which lies just off the west coast of the scottish mainland. It is the only distillery still in operation on the island.

The 10-year-old expression is the distillery's standard, base expression. It's aged in ex-american whiskey hogsheads (barrels), apparently just outside of Glasgow these days, according to this 2011 article. Talisker still has warehouses on site, apparently, which it keeps full by migrating casks from the mainland facility as it taps the older ones on site.

Talisker 10 is a golden brown, and has a complex aroma and caramel and pepper. It's bottled at 91.6 proof (45.8% abv), a little higher than most other distillery edition single malts, which usually weigh in at between 80 and 86 proof.

So, a youngish scotch with no extra sexy finishes, just a decade in one type of barrel. How good can it be?

Quite good. Excellent in fact.

Talisker is the taste equivalent of sitting in front of a blazing fireplace in a house on the seacoast on a chill night in the late fall, with the windows cracked so you can smell salt in the air and hear the crash of the waves. It's fire and spice with an underlying sweetness that engages the tongue in a delightful dance.

Sipped with just a tad bit of water, there's peat there, both from the malt and the underground springs the distillery draws on, but this is no Islay peat monster. There's sweetness, then the smoke moves in slowly, and before it overwhelms, it gets nicely balanced with bit of saltiness, a some more sweetness, and then the signature Talisker spicy black pepper finish, which fades to a lingering finish that reminds me of a salty onshore breeze and makes my tongue warm and happy.

This unique and complex taste doesn't really have an equivalent in the universe of single malt scotches. If you haven't tried it, and don't hate peat, you owe it yourself to sample it.

Talisker is not a cheap dram - here in the US, it'll set you back $65-$70 a 750ml bottle. I was fortunate enough to score my liter bottle at a duty free shop in the Caribbean for the same price as the 750s were selling for in the liquor stores at home, making it a great bargain.

However, when that bottle is finally done in, I will be replacing it, even if I have to pay full US retail. Talisker has earned a permanent place on my personal bar.

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Angel's Envy Bourbon - The Curse of the Ever Empty Bottle

Angel's Envy Bourbon

As far as I can tell, the natural state of a bottle of Angel's Envy Bourbon is as pictured above: drained empty by your friends.

And if you have no interest in reading the next 600+words, here's the review in a nutshell: it's wonderful stuff, you owe it to yourself to give it a try, and it's earned a permanent place on my bar, if I can figure out a way to keep a bottle around for more than a week after opening it. It'll set you back about $50, and it's worth every penny.

I recommended this as part of my last minute 2013 gift guide, but didn't do a full review. Several weeks later I discovered that the local ABC stores had started carrying it, and picked up another bottle to share with friends at the monthly First Friday art walk at City Market Studios and Gallery.

That bottle did not survive the night.

After almost two years of whisky on First Friday, it stands out as the only bottle I did not get to finish at home.

But that left me with 1 bottle, so all was good. And then I took that bottle, still unopened, to share at a whisky tasting at Mysticon in Virginia.

It survived the tasting, but with barely enough nectar left to provide for this review. And now that bottle is now empty as well, and I am sad.

Angel's Envy is truly special. It shows what a master craftsman can do when they set out to create something special. In this case, it was master distiller Lincoln Henderson (recently deceased), who helped birth Woodford Reserve, creating a special whiskey to help his son break into the whiskey business.

Everything about the base bourbon, from the grain bill (72% corn, 18% rye, 10% malt), to the yeast, to the distillation process to the use of charcoal filtering instead of chill filtering, to where in the warehouse (top rack) the whiskey is aged, and for how long, is designed to create a spirit that will blend well with the flavors that come from being partially aged in a used ruby red port barrel.

And that's how most of what's in an Angel's Envy bottle gets there: distillation, aging in a charred oak barrel for 4-6 years, and then a further 6 months or more in a port barrel shipped over from Portugal. However, reading the marketing materials on the Angel's Envy website, I discovered another interesting tidbit: some of the whiskey apparently goes straight into port barrels after distilling, and then is blended back in with the oak aged bourbon at some point in the process.

Of interest to whiskey geeks - these materials also claim that bourbon ages quicker than scotch due to warmer climate of the US and the use new charred barrels (the scots tend to age in used barrels, commonly, bourbon).

And now onto the whiskey itself.

Angel's Envy is a lovely golden liquid. Bottled at 86.6 proof (43.3% abv), it's is medium heavy when sipped neat, which is generally how I drink it.

The aroma is an enticing blend of honey, oak and sweet port. And then there's the flavor.

Smooth and sweet and subtle straight from the bottle, with a surprisingly mild alcohol bite. The flavor starts with the honey sweetness and touch of rye spice familiar to all bourbon drinkers, but then you realize the ruby port flavors slipped in at some point, and you're not sure when, and your tongue doesn't care, it just wants more.

This a far different experience than the distinct oak pop! at the end of the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked. These flavors blend seamlessly, much more in the style of a good single malt scotch, with everything singing in harmony across your taste receptors.

And this, of course, is why you never have any around. It tastes so damn good and sips so damn easy that your friends just can't help themselves.

This is an easy recommendation. If you find it, buy it. Give it as a gift. Get your friends hooked on it. That way you can help empty their bottles when you visit them.

Because your bottle will never last long.

(PS - This is another bottle that your artsy friends will hound you for, even after it's empty.)