The standard expression from Bowmore is 12-year-old whisky aged in ex bourbon barrels. To get Darkest, they dump that spirit into ex-Oloroso sherry casks and let it age for another 3 years. The result is a darker, redder spirit that represents a departure from the standard Bowmore palate.
Bowmore is an Islay scotch, which means peat. However, while Bowmore is definitely peatier than the mainline scotches, it's nowhere near as peaty as the monsters of the southeastern Islay coast: Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroig.
And while some folks may blanch at the idea of combining peat and sherry, I've previously reviewed Ardbeg Uigeadail which blends those exact flavors brilliantly. So I was very interested to see how Bowmore take on the idea came out.
Bowmore bills its Bowmore Darkest 15 as "one of the most beautifully balanced Bowmores." I can't disagree with that assessment.
Darkest is bottled at 86 proof (43% abv), which means it's been watered down to sipping strength. Still, I drink mine with just a little bit of water, as I feel it improves the aroma and flavor palette.
As mentioned, Darkest is a lovely dark reddish amber in glass. With the addition of that bit of H2O, the aroma is rich, sweet sherry and caramel with some hints of strawberry.
In the mouth, I'd characterize it as heavy. The flavor is smooth, sweet, sherry and fruit notes blending seamlessly with the peat and honey of the standard Bowmore before fading to a gently peppery sparkle.
It's interesting what those extra 3 years in the ex-sherry casks do to the spirit. The oiliness that is one of the defining characteristics of the 12-year-old Bowmore for me is gone, a welcome change. The peat flavors, while still present, are much subdued, and on this spring night in North Carolina, undetected by my nose.
This a refined, rich dram, soft and easy to sip.
I personally prefer it to the 12-year-old Bowmore, although the $30 price premium for Darkest makes me wince a little. It makes an excellent gift for a whisky enthusiast.
Naturally, the question that presents itself is: how does Darkest stack up against Ardbeg Uigeadail? They share a similar idea: peaty whisky partially aged in ex-sherry casks, and, at least in the US, are generally priced within a couple of dollars of each other.
Honestly, they are different. Which one you prefer is going to be a matter of personal taste.
Darkest has a heavier mouthfeel, darker color, and it just sort of envelopes and caresses your tongue with rich flavors.
Uigeadail is a little lighter in mouth feel, lighter in color, has more peat and smoke, and dances across your tongue, thrilling it with a wonderful riot of flavors.
I prefer Uigeadail by a little bit, but I won't argue with folks who prefer Darkest. It's a lovely whisky, and well worth a try.
