Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Tullamore Dew Special Reserve: Tasty, but Not So Special

Tullamore Dew 12-year-old



The regular expression of Tullamore Dew is generally my go-to standard blended Irish whiskey. It's inexpensive and I like it just a little more than Jameson's. So, I was intrigued when this new variant hit the local store shelves carrying an age statement (missing from the regular Dew's label) and a hefty 75% price premium.

According to the Tullamore Dew website, the the Special Edition Dew gets more aging, and a slightly different mix of whiskies: more malt and pot still distilled whiskey (the good stuff) and less of the non malt whiskey distilled with some other, not so marketable still type (the "meh" stuff?). Both share a mix of triple-distilled whiskies made from different grains aged in bourbon and Oloroso casks, although the Special Reserve Dew makes a big deal out of those casks on the label, and the regular Dew doesn't really mention them.

So, if you're standing there in the liquor store, torn between the $20 bottle of regular,just plain regular Dew, and the $37 bottle of the sexy Special Reserve Dew with it's age statement and promise of being aged just so in bourbon and sherry casks, which one should your trembling hand add to your basket?

It depends - do you need to impress someone who doesn't read this site?

Buy the Special Reserve Dew.

Do you want to explore the subtle differences between whiskey that's at least 12 years old, vs whiskey of a presumably younger, but indeterminate age?

Again, buy the Special Reserve Dew.

Are you looking for the best value for your whiskey dollar?

Buy the regular Dew.

Alternately, if you're looking to spend in the price range of the Special Reserve Dew and are attracted by the sherry cask aging, go a few dollars more for an Abelour, Glenfarclas, Balvenie Double Wood, or Macallan 12 year old single malt. All of these have much richer sherry notes in their flavor.

I'm not saying the Special Reserve Dew is a bad whiskey. It most certainly is not. To my taste, though, it is not 75% better than the regular Dew...not even close to being that superior.

I say that based on sitting here, with a glass of each, side-by-side. Based on how they look in the glass, they are almost indistinguishable. They are both honey colored, with the Special Reserve being barely perceptibly darker.

Both weigh in at 80 proof (40% abv) meaning both have been watered down from cask strength. This isn't a knock - the lowered proof allows one to enjoy all the flavor available while sipping either one neat, rather than having to experiment to find the right amount of water to add.

Both have very similar aromas to my nose: sweet with a touch of sherry.

There is a discernible difference in flavor, but not a stunning one. Both are light bodied, starting with honey sweetness that quickly fades to a muted sherry and oak flavors before disappearing in a medium short finish.

The Special Reserve Dew is just a little softer, a little smoother, with a little more sherry and detectable oak and overall slightly richer flavor.

For all the mention it makes of the sherry casks on the label, the Special Reserve either spends little time in them or the sherried whiskies are a small part of the blend. You can find the flavors, but you have to think about it. If you're expecting the rich sherry flavors you find in the single malts I mentioned earlier, you'll be disappointed. (For the record, the regular Dew gets a pass here, because it doesn't make prominent mention of the sherry aging on it's label - in fact, I didn't even realize it used sherry cask aged whiskey in the mix until I was researching for this review).

Is the Special Reserve Dew better than the regular Dew? Yes.

Is it $17 or per bottle better than it's $20 a bottle younger sibling? Not to my tastes, alas. I'll be keeping the regular Dew around, but when this bottle of Special Reserve Dew is gone, I won't pay to replace it.











1 comment:

  1. […] Irish whiskies are blends of whiskies from different grains: barley, wheat and so on). Even the Tullamore Dew Special Reserve I reviewed earlier is a blended […]

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